Remove all body panels that you can; doors, hood, bumpers, trunk, etc. Remove all interior peices. Level the chassis using 8 jack stands.
Measure and move front K member 10" forward. The top of frame will have to be measured and set at the same degree as the original.
The rear axle of the car has been moved forward fifteen inches, just like on the factory cars. This procedure is really not all that complicated. It involves slicing the floorpan just behind where the front seats are located. Cuts are then made at the rocker panels and again in the trunk, just behind the frame kickup. Then a rectangular section is removed from the floorpan which must equal the amount thatthe rear wheels are to be moved forward. Then, the section of floorpan/frame containing the axle clearance frame kick-up is simply moved forward and re-welded into position. Filler panels are welded down to fill any voids left by the surgery.
As for the bodywork, the rear wheel openings can be cut out and grafted into position so that they center around the relocated wheels, or as was the practice among some of the less appearance-concious teams, the wheel openings can simply be elongated, thereby eliminating most of the cosmetic body work.
When cutting the old wheel wells out there is a hidden brace behind and above the wheel well.
Use the F-body disk brakes. Spindels, rotor, caliper it is a bolt in deal. If you use 14" wheels use the 11" rotors with the sliding caliper. Use the 11 1/2" rotor when using the 15" wheels.
When you sut teh rear frame tack weld a piece of angle iron to the rear bottom of the two frames.
After you have stripped your car remove all under coating. This will make rewelding much easier. And sand blast the front end of the car. Firewall, frame rails, and inner panels.
Steering is much easier to align by using the two u-joints and shaft from a horizon. Cut the steering collum shaft to length and machine down to fit the u-joint. On the steering box end carefully file or grind a flat spot on the steering box shaft to match the end of the u-joint.
UPDATES ON CONSTRUCTION
First year ran a 383 ci performance poor
Second year ran a 446 ci performance picked up 8.35 et 1/8 best
This year. Replaced rear frame rails, new ss springs, new shocks, 4500
stall converter, 2in fenderwell headers by hooker, tm7 intake, and
1050 demon carb. will see what it will run when the track opens.
May 13th 2000
Ran 820 quickest time, should be in the mid 7's
We'll see what happens next week.
May 20th 2000
First time trial blew transmission at starting line,
Have to build new trany now.
July 18th 2000
Fixed the trany. Now I'm making the car look presentable for the Nats.
I only have three weeks left.
I will be at the mopar nats in Aug.
Aug. 20th 2000
Went to the Nationals, car made it down 1/3 of the track (my son was
driving it this year). The new
shifter we bought was faulty, what luck. I couldn't fix
the car because I seem to have gotten salmonilla poisining.
So, unfortunately all I got to see was my car go partially down the track,
the burn out contest and the hospital. Luckily, my children and friends have taken pictures
so I got to see them. Maybe next year......
If anyone wants to send pictures to me for the site, please do!
My e-mail addy is toward the bottom of this page.
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